I live about fifteen minutes from Rock Canyon in Provo, UT, so I have climbed there a lot. Just recently my friend, Gabe, took me to a boulder called, Heroin Hut. This boulder is tucked out of the way but can be found pretty easily from the main trail. The location of the boulder is shown on this picture labeled #1.
The first route we climbed is called, “On Crack” V1. This was a really fun warm-up. You don’t need any crack climbing technique, like hand or foot jams, on this route. Start the route matched on the under-cling and move right to the crack. There are several options for your hands and feet all the way to the top. The moves could be V0, but I agree with the V1 rating because of the angle of the boulder, since it is on a hill you experience a slight lay-back. After you top out, walk to the west end of the boulder where you can scramble down.
The second route we climbed is called, “Easy” V0 (I think). There is not a lot of information about this boulder on the internet, so we had to guess. We started on the bulge of the boulder where there is a small overhang two feet off the ground. We believe this is a sit start, so take a seat and start by placing your hands on the crimp of the roof and your left foot straight out in front of you. Then place your right foot extended to the right underneath the roof. There are some really sweet rectangular crimps you will use, after that follow the route straight up. The first two moves are the hardest, because it is a sit start, so I rate this route a V1.
The third route we climbed is called, “Heroin Traverse” V3. This route starts in the hollow section of the boulder. The start holds are the same as for “Dihedral” V0 and “Say No to Jugs” V6. The first few moves are really fun, you will use a couple of side pulls until you mantle with your left hand on the slabby part of the boulder (see below).
Then very carefully reach your right hand over to a pocket-crimp positioned by the corner. This next move is almost impossible, unless you are over 6 feet tall. With your left foot on a tiny chip push off your right foot to reach a small crimp with your left hand, then bump to the larger crimp. The moves after this are a piece of cake. Top out slightly right and above the over-hang. Unfortunately, the reachy power move (see below) was too far for me and I did not complete this route.
The final route we climbed is called, “The Glass Factory” V4. I really liked the moves on this route. They are short power moves from crimp to crimp. This video below shoes Gabe completing the route:
Overall, this boulder was really fun to climb. There are a couple more V0 and V1 routes that I didn’t mention, so I recommend this boulder for novice climbers or for warm-up routes. I did not attempt “Say No to Jugs” V6 due to lack of beta information. If you know the V6 beta, help me! In the meantime, I will look into adding my current knowledge of the routes I climbed, on Wikiboulder or Mountain Project.
Do you have information about this boulder? Comment below!